The Ages of Leather

The primitive people who lived during the Ice Age some 500,000 years ago were likely the first human beings to use the skins of animals to protect their bodies from the elements. As it is today, leather was a "by-product": those ancient ancestors of ours hunted animals primarily for food, but once they had eaten all the meat from their kill they would clean the skin by scraping off the flesh and then slinging it around their shoulders as a crude form of coat. Furthermore, they invented footwear out of necessity to protect their bare feet from rocks and thorns. These first “shoes” would hardly qualify for designer awards as they consisted of pieces of animal skin slashed into a rough bag fitting loosely over the man’s foot and tied at his ankle with thin strips of skin or even with vines. The main problem that primitive man encountered was that after a relatively short time the skins decayed and rotted away. Man with his limited knowledge and experience had no idea how to preserve these hides.

As centuries passed it was noticed that several things could be done to slow down the decaying process. First, if the skins were stretched out and allowed to dry in the sun, it made them stiff and hard but they would definitely last longer. In order to make them soft and supple, various oily substances were rubbed into pores of the skin. This process was useable but could hardly be termed leather.

In any case, a great deal of time passed before it was discovered that the bark of some trees contained "tannin" or tannic acid which could convert raw skins into what we recognize as leather. The fact that this was an effective method of preservation was undoubtedly discovered by pure chance. It is hard to substantiate chronologically at exactly what time this method materialized, although you will recall that the famous "Iceman" dating from at least 5,000 B.C. that was discovered in the Italian Alps several years ago was clothed in very durable leather. Somewhat later, techniques used by the American Indian were likely very similar to those used in this early period. The Indians took the ashes from their campfires, put water on them and soaked the skins in this solution. In a few weeks the hair and bits of flesh came off. leaving the raw hide.  By working the hide with his hands and rubbing it with sticks, the Indian made the hide soft and pliable. The tanning which was done in a solution of hemlock and oak bark, took about three months and the leather was again worked by hand. This method was similar to that used by mankind in numerous geographical areas throughout the early periods of human civilization.

As certain leather characteristics began to emerge, men realized it could be used for many purposes besides footwear and clothing. For example, water would keep fresh and cool in a leather bag. Leather usage increased greatly as it was found suitable for tents, beds, rugs, carpet, armour and harnesses. One of the most developed civilizations in this early period existed in Egypt. Leather making was an important trade among the ancient Egyptians who made leather sandals, belts, bags, shields, harness, cushions and chair seats. As you know, many of these items are still made from leather today.

 Similarly, the Greeks and Romans used leather to make many different styles of sandals, boots and shoes. When the Roman legions marched in conquest across Europe, they were well attired in leather armour and leather capes. In fact, in Europe, right up to the early 18th century, the shield carried by the ordinary soldier was more likely to be made of leather than metal. It is interesting to note that Plutarch, in describing the Greek society of his time (circa 46AD), refers to 8 basic guilds of artisans, which included both shoemakers and tanners. Although tanning was originally a cottage trade, the Greeks had full- time professional tanners who were at first employed in leather processing establishments and became independent some time later. The barks of conifers and alder were used as tannin sources and so were the peel of the pomegranate, sumach leaves, walnut, cups of acorns as well as an Egyptian heritage - mimosa bark. The Greeks were also familiar with alum tannage and it appears they knew something about tanning with fish oil. The types of leathers used were as diversified as the end users. Homer refers to the use of cowhide, goat leather and weasel leather by the Greeks.

The edict issued by the Roman emperor Diocletian which fixed ceiling prices for all kinds of goods and services included skins and leather prepared from goats, sheep, lambs, hyenas, deer, wild sheep, wolves, martens, beaver, bears, jackels, seals, leopards and lions. Under the edict, cowhide was even classified according to groups and qualities. A complete tannery in the famous ash-preserved ruins of Pompeii was unearthed in 1873.

As we move into the middle ages, leather continued to increase in popularity. By far the cleverest craftsmen with leather in medieval times were the Arabs. The Moors developed remarkable skill primarily in the preparation of beautiful goatskin still known as morocco leather after the country of its origin. In fact the description 'genuine morocco' is still very highly regarded today, particularly in the manufacture of small leather goods.

 In Medieval England when most industries were carried out by master craftsmen aided by apprentices under the supervision of the appropriate Craft Guilds, the leather trade was represented by a large number of guilds including Cordwainers, Corriers, Fletchers, Girdlers, Glovers, Homers (Bottlemakers), Leather Sellers, Loriners, Saddlers, Skinners, Pursers, Tanners and Harness-makers as well as others. All kinds of containers were made from leather, such as sword cases and dagger sheaths, box coverings and water bottles, many of them beautifully decorated by punching and incising. Leather was also a favorite medium for decorative art. Leather was used to cover books. In those days, when the horse was the principal means of transport, saddlery and harness making were important uses of leather.

Until the later part of the 19th century, there were relatively few changes in the methods used to produce leather. In fact, by this time, the process had changed very little in over 200 years. However, the industrial revolution did not bypass tanning - one of the oldest and most basic forms of manufacturing. Science was quickly introduced to the art and craft of leather-making. A wider range of dyestuffs, synthetic tanning agents and oils were introduced. Together with precision machinery, these changes and continued innovations to the present day have combined to make tanning into a viable, modern manufacturing industry.